Climbing in the Dolomites

Alta Pusteria offers top via ferratas and mountain tours

For friends of the Alps and lovers of climbing, Alta Pusteria, with its wonderful mountains, offers a number of interesting climbing tours on the most beautiful peaks.

 

Here a little choice of beautiful via ferratas in Alta Pusteria

Monte Paterno (2744 m) in Alta Pusteria, the broad alpine valley in the Dolomites
For versed hikers with experience in via ferratas: sure of step, free from giddiness, resistant.

Starting point: hut Locatelli(2450 m), to be reached from Dobbiaco (Landro lake, valle della Rienza) or from Sesto/Moso (hut Piano Fiscalino – hut Fondovalle) or from the parking lot hut Auronzo with toll road from lake Misurina.
Course: From hut Locatelli towards "Frankfurter Würstel" to the tunnel. At the end of the tunnel belayed path to the “Gamsscharte” , then right steep ascent to the peak. Keep your concentration around the peak, there are many confusing possibilities. After the peak back to the “Gamsscharte”, from there a few metres down, then on the war path to the Sella Monte Paterno.
Duration: ascent and descent each over an hour.
Particularity: The Monte Paterno is an impressing peak of the Sextner Dolomiten. One of the many climbing routes is the „Innerkofler-Klettersteig“, like many others a via ferrata laid out during World War I. Its particularity is a tunnel of about 600 m: do not forget helmet and torch! If you descend from the peak and the “Gamsscharte” towards the saddle, you will be rewarded with unforgettable views.

 

Torre di Toblin (2627 m) in Alta Pusteria, the broad alpine valley in the Dolomites
For versed hikers with experience in via ferratas: sure of step, free from giddiness, resistant.

Starting point: hut Locatelli(2450 m), see above

Course: Behind the hut Locatelli path upwards towards the peak, after a few minutes you reach a sign. Follow it and walk around the peak on the left following the marks, reach in a considerable height the exposed strips and the start of the via ferrata "Dolomitenfreunde ". It continues exposed and adventurous but with no problems for about 140 m, mainly on steel ladders (about 17) to the peak. The highlights hooks in a steep wall. Descent on the marked and easy path "Feldkurat-Hosp.
Duration: ascent from the hut 45 min., descent from the peak to the hut about 40 min.

 

 

Here a little choice of beautiful and appealing climbing gyms in Alta Pusteria

Ponticello Climbing Garden in Alta Pusteria, the broad alpine valley in the Dolomites

Access: From the first turn on the road to Prato Piazza in one minute
Routes: approx. 25 one rope-length routes
Level of difficulty: 3 - 7b
Characteristics: Easily accessible, very well secured climbing garden; mostly vertical to overlapping hiking along brackets and holes; ideal for families with children.

 

Landro Climbing Garden in Alta Pusteria, the broad alpine valley in the Dolomites

Access: from Prato Piazza approx 20 minutes on alpine path no. 3 until you see the climbing walls to your right. Steeply uphill for about 10 minutes to the climbing garden.
Routes: approx. 35 tours, 7 of which are routes with up to 4 rope-lengths
Level of difficulty: from 3b to 7a
Characteristics: This climbing garden is unique from a landscape point of view; the routes are secured. You climb on ground with a lot of holes, very rough, and where the rock is not secure everywhere, wearing a helmet is recommended.

 

Kirchler Climbing Garden in Alta Pusteria, the broad alpine valley in the Dolomites

Access: From the third turn on the road to Prato Piazza hike up along the left border of the gravel until reaching alpine path no. 3 to the Kirchler Ridge. Follow this path to the first routes for approx. 1 hour.
Routes: approx. 35 tours, 8 of which are routes with up to 7 rope-lengths
Level of difficulty: from 6a to 7c
Characteristics: Due to the access alone, you could consider the Kirchler tours more as alpine sports climbing routes than climbing garden routes. The rock consists of compact limestone. The tours are secured. Alpine experience and a spirit of adventure are still necessary. All routes with several rope-lengths can be abseiled with a 60m rope.